Yohji Yamamoto – PAFW 2011

Astazi am avut o discutie extrem de interesanta cu cativa amici despre fashion journalism. O lume absolut magnifica, una in care teatralitatea liturgica a perioadei pre-moderne, incarcata de simbolism, nu a incetat sa existe. Dimpotriva. Binecunoscuta pentru indarjirea animalica, ba chiar oculta*, cu care isi pastreaza secretele, pentru pasiunile si tensiunile vulcanice dezlantuite intre casele mai mult sau mai putin celebre de moda, aceasta casta quasi-monastica hotaraste destinele mapamondului mai mult decat reusesc sa o faca pana si cei mai talentati politicieni sau capetenii religioase.

Pe marele Yohji Yamamoto l-am prezentat foarte recent pe Lanternativa noastra. Mai jos puteti urmari prezentarea colectiei FW 2011 – 2012, excelenta atat dpdv al pieselor, cat si a modelelor!

* Termen des folosit in literatura de specialitate (vezi Journal of Design History, Vol. 22, No. 3, Sep., 2009).

P.S. Mi-a placut foarte mult un fragment din filmul The Devils Wears Prada:

– You know, I’m still learning about this stuff (aka Haute couture) and, uhm…

– “This… stuff”?! … Oh. Okay. I see.  You think this has nothing to do with you. You go to your closet and you select that lumpy blue sweater, for instance… And this because you’re trying to tell the world that you take yourself too seriously to care about what you put on your back. But what you don’t know is that that sweater is not just blue. It’s not turquoise. It’s not lapis. It’s actually cerulean. And you’re also blithely unaware of the fact that in 2002, Oscar de la Renta did a collection of cerulean gowns. And then I think it was Yves Saint Laurent –  wasn’t it? –   who showed cerulean military jackets. And then cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of eight different designers.  And then it filtered down through the department stores and trickled on down into some tragic Casual Corner where you, no doubt, fished it out of some clearance bin. However, that “blue” represents millions of dollars and countless jobs and it’s sort of comical how you think that you’ve made a choice that exempts you!