Revista Vogue a fost, odata ca niciodata, cel putin pentru gusturile mele, sinonima cu bunul gust, aristocratia, moda la cel mai rafinat nivel. Chiar daca Vogue este, probabil, cel mai cunoscut magazin de moda, trecutul sau este putin cunoscut publicului larg. Tocmai de aceea am ales sa vi-l prezint la Lanternativa.

Insa nu dintr-un punct de vedere istoric, livresc, ci dintr-unul artistic, vizual. Dupa cum se stie, la realizarea copertilor sale au colaborat, de-a lungul timpului, artisti ca Dali, Cocteau, Plank, Dreyen si multi altii. Daca astazi copertile sale sunt fixate exculsiv pe fotografie (din pacate), la inceputul secolului trecut - pana prin anii ‘40 - acestea erau desenate sau pictate manual, devenind adevarate piese de colectie.

Mai jos puteti admira peste 40 de coperte ale revistei Vogue, ce acopera o perioada cuprinsa intre 1914 - 1948. Majoritatea dintre ele contin si scurte descrieri, inclusiv data exacta a aparitiei. Cateva informatii despre artistii prezentati puteti consulta mai jos:

Helen Dryden

Cecil Beaton

George Wolfe Plank (1883-1965):

Plank as a self-taught artist who first worked for factories and department stores before moving to Philadelphia where he helped edit and print The Butterfly Quarterly (1907-1909). In 1911 Plank was hired by Condé Nast to contribute cover designs and illustrations for Vogue (1911-1927) and Vanity Fair (1914-1922) magazines. Unlike other leading artists who supplied illustrations for Vogue, Plank’s covers depended less on actual fashions and instead depicted women in dramatic, timeless, and fanciful costumes. He was a dominant force for the magazine and shared the spotlight with a small handful of others, including George Lepape, Helen Dryden, and Frank X. Leyendecker. However, all of the freedom and praise of design that Plank received was not enough to prevent the more radically “modern” design that soon came to dominate the covers.

Earl Christy (1882 - 1961):

F. Earl Christy was born in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania in 1882.  The “F” is believed to stand for “Frederic”. At 17, he painted originals for the Boardwalk Atlantic City Picture company, with many of his early works published by the J. Hoover and Sons Calendar Company of Philadelphia. He attended the Pennsylvania Academy of Arts from 1905-1907.  Christy produced dozens of magazine covers including;  Dell Publishing Company for Modern Romances, Modern Screen and Radio Stars.

Mai multe lucrari ale sale puteti vedea aici.

George Lepape (1887-1971):

Studied at the Ecole des Arts Décoratifs, Paris, and the ateliers of Humbert and Cormon. In 1911 illustrated Les Choses de Paul Poiret and the following year programmes for the Ballet Russe . Innumerable magazines covers and fashion plates for La Gazette du Bon Ton and Vogue.  In 1911, Poiret again published a brochure of his designs, this time created by another young artist, Georges Lepape, who had been trained in the atelier run by Fernand Cormon, where Toulouse-Lautrec, Van Gogh, Sérusier, Matisse, and Picabia had all studied. Les Choses de Paul Poiret, vues par Georges Lepape appeared in a larger edition: one thousand copies were printed (Paris: 1911). Lepape, too, had absorbed the lessons of bright color taught by the Ballet Russes, and his pochoir prints of Poiret’s still high-waisted fashions in this brochure and later in the Gazette du Bon Ton used line drawings with large areas of blues, greens, reds, pinks, and yellows.

Eduardo Garcia Benito (1891-1962):

Born in Spain in 1891, Edouardo Benito studied in Valladolid, at Belles Artes de San Fernando, Madrid and at the Ecole des Beaux Arts in Paris. There, he launched his career with the legendary Paul Poiret as a designer of fabrics, furnishings and decorative objects. Benito lived in Paris and New York and was a major contributor to fashion books and magazines including “Gazette du Bon Ton,” “L’Homme Elegant” and “Le Gout du Jour” and the deluxe catalogue “La Derniere Lettre Persane,” 1920, illustrating 12 new creations for Fourrures Max. Benito is probably best remembered for the 20 years he reigned as leading cover artist for international editions of Vogue magazine. In later years he worked as a successful muralist and portrait painter. His linear style captured the elegance of the era and established Vogue, then a fledgling magazine, to the stature it now enjoys among fashion aficionados.

Pierre Mourgue (1907-1963 ?)

William Bolin (?)

Carl Erickson (1891 - 1958):

Leading fashion and advertising artist, especially well known for this work for Vogue and Coty cosmetics. Usually signed his work “Eric”.

Mai multe din lucrarile sale, aici.

Mai multe coperte & informatii: aici si aici.

Despre René Gruau si lucrarile sale, aici.

Vogue la Flickr